Prada is under fire in India for allegedly copying a centuries-old sandal design without credit, sparking accusations that the Italian luxury fashion house is cashing in on Indian culture while local artisans struggle.
“These sandals are made with the hard work of leather workers in Kolhapur. They should be named after Kolhapur. Don’t take advantage of others’ labor,” artisan Prabha Satpute told BBC Marathi.
The controversy began after Prada showcased open-toe, braided leather sandals that closely resembled Kolhapuri sandals at last week’s Milan Fashion Week, shoes handmade for generations in India’s Maharashtra and Karnataka.
Prada initially described the sandals simply as “leather footwear,” prompting backlash and charges of cultural appropriation.
Prada later revised its statement to the BBC, saying it “recognizes that the sandals are inspired by traditional Indian footwear.”
A Prada spokesperson said the company has “always celebrated craftsmanship, heritage and design traditions” and is “in contact with the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry & Agriculture on this topic.”
The chamber’s chief had written to Prada, saying the design was commercialized without crediting the artisans who have preserved it for generations.
Prada CSR head Lorenzo Bertelli responded that the sandals were “at an early stage of design,” according to Reuters.
Kolhapuri sandals, which received Geographical Indication status in 2019, typically sell for about $12 in Indian markets, while Prada’s men’s leather sandals retail for $844 and up.
Prada’s products remain beyond the reach of most Indians, even as India’s luxury market grows rapidly, with rising numbers of wealthy buyers purchasing Louis Vuitton bags, Lamborghini cars, luxury homes and watches.
Meanwhile, Indian culture and crafts are increasingly appearing in global luxury lines. High-end jeweler Bulgari, for example, sells a $16,000 Mangalsutra necklace inspired by a chain traditionally worn by married Indian women.
Despite frustration over the lack of credit, some in Kolhapur see the attention as a point of pride.
“Artisans are happy that someone is recognising their work,” Kolhapur businessman Dileep More told Reuters.
The Prada controversy is the latest in a string of incidents where global brands have been accused of appropriating Indian designs.
At the Cannes Film Festival, Gucci described a sari worn by actress Alia Bhatt as a “gown,” while a viral TikTok trend recently mislabeled a traditional South Asian dupatta as a “Scandinavian scarf.”
